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Maverick's: The Story of Big-Wave Surfing |
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Written by admin
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Friday, 02 January 2009 |
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Maverick's: The Story of Big-Wave Surfing 
"A voodoo wave." "The Everest of the ocean." What surfer in his right mind would choose to surf Maverick's with its 50-degree murky water, 60-foot faces, punishing rock bottom, and shifting Central California currents over riding the warm, blue, big waves of Hawaii? But Maverick's presents a surfing challenge like no other. Each winter, starting in October, an elite corps from around the world journey to Maverick's to test themselves on its cold, forbidding waves-because challenge, above all else, motivates the big-wave surfer. With heart-stopping photography and an exceptional, driving text, Maverick's tracks the 1/2ve most dangerous days in the break's history, including its first casualty: big-wave celebrity Mark Foo, who died on the morning of his very first visit. Surf journalist Matt Warshaw weaves into this vivid record the complete and unconventional history of big-wave surfing, from its ancient Hawaiian origins through to the modern drama of tow-in surfers. Like Into Thin Air, Maverick's promises to transcend its core audience, appealing to the huge armchair market that is enthralled by the sporting life lived at the extreme of danger.
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Caught Inside: A Surfer's Year on the California Coast |
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Written by admin
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Friday, 02 January 2009 |
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Caught Inside: A Surfer's Year on the California Coast 
Tossing aside a mundane and meaningless job, Daniel Duane went to Santa Cruz, California, to surf for year. The book he wrote about it, Caught Inside is something of a Walden of our times. It's wonderfully written, weaving wave wisdom with literary and historical references. And it's not for surfers only: even readers who have never seen the surf will find themselves taken up in the book's rhythms.
Duane sought the peace that surfing offers, and his impressions of surfing characters, sea life (otters, seals, and the great white shark everyone fears is right under you as you paddle your board), and the seasons by the sea are evocative and soothing to read.
A wondrous, uproarious, and surprisingly informative account of a year spend surfing, Caught Inside marks the arrival of an exuberant new voice of the outdoors. This remarkable narrative of Daniel Duane’s life on the water is enhanced by good-humored explanations of the physics of wave dynamics, the intricate art of surfboard design, and lyrical, sharp-eyed descriptions of the flora and fauna of the Pacific wilderness. From Captain Cook and Mark Twain to Robinson Jeffers and Jack London, from portraits of famous (and infamous) surfers to an analysis of Gidget’s perverse significance, Duane expertly uncovers the myths and symbols bound up in one of our most vibrant and recognizably American subjects.
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Return by Water: Surf Stories and Adventures |
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Written by admin
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Friday, 02 January 2009 |
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Return by Water: Surf Stories and Adventures 
From the big-wave surfers of Tahiti and the salty hurricane chasers of New England, to the cliffs of Molokai's infamous leper colony and the Wild Coast of South Africa's Transkei Homeland, Return by Water brings light to surfers' lives around the world with amazing sense of place and deft character portraits of the famous, ordinary and irascible surfer alike. Follow surf journalist Kimball Taylor on his travels through South Africa, Ecuador, Brazil, Mexico, Hawaii, French Polynesia, Indonesia and more. The journey is as transforming and definitive as any surfer's first trip away from home.
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